Sunday, 16th of December 2007 at 02:59:11 PM

My Camino Day 6 (Wednesday June 6 2007): Monte de Gozo - Santiago de Compostella (~5 km)

My last day on the Camino starts at 7.00 am. I had decided to walk this last 5 km on my own. Weather was fine. Sun was shining. Coming down from Monte de Gozo I reached very quick the city entrance of Santiago de Compostella.

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Santiago city entrance.

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 Then walking through the suburb of St. Marco I see the first time the cathedral. I arrive at 7.45 am in front of the cathedral. After walking around the cathedral I find a nice bar and have some breakfast. At 8.45 am I met Yvonne in front of the Pilgrims office where we queue up to get our Compostella.

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Me waiting in front of the Pilgrims office to get the Compostella.

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Yvonne got her compostella at the desk next to where I received my compostella.

After that we take another coffe together and Patrick joins us. Then we split up, and plan to join for the pilgrims mass which is every day at 12.00. I stroll through the streets take some photos and write postcards. Later I buy some souvenir T-Shirts. At 12.00 I am in the mass, the cathedral is full. I see a lot of faces I had seen on the Camino. Very emtional when the Pilgrims are listed who arrived this day. There is one German Pilgrim from Villafranca del Bierzo: A pied, which means on foot: That is me! I had made it 200 km in 5 days. A nice experience.

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Me in front of the cathedral in the afternoon.

my camino to santiago de compostela

200km in 5 days. Villafranca del Bierzo to Santiago.

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Sunday, 16th of December 2007 at 10:29:53 AM

My Camino Day 5 (Tuesday June 5 2007): Arzúa - Monte de Gozo (~38 km)

The night in Arzua I slept not very well. From 3 a.m. I woke up several times, I had two snorer on my left and my right. At 6.30 i got up and my Hike started at 7.00. Walking still in the dark, I got overtaken early by a lady holding a banana peel in her right hand. She had a quick pace, I noticed that I was walking quite slow and I was very tired this morning. So I took the chance and made the lady to my pace maker: I sped up trying to hold her pace and walked around 100 meters behind her still wondering why she didn’ t throw away the banana peel.

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1 h 45 after Arzua I arrived in Calle where a nice bar invited me for a hot coffee and my usual bocadillo breakfast. I got in and noticed the lady with the banana peel also ordering her breakfast. I took a seat next to her and we came into talk. She explained me that a banana peel takes quite long to decompose and it makes still sense to through it in a bin although its organic stuff. We immediately opened a easy-going conversation and I found her immediately very sympathic. She told me that she uses to eat a bocadillo with tortilla (kind of spanish potato-egg omelett), and liking tortilla but not knowing the combinatin on a sandwich I decided to try that out soon. Chatting relaxedly we took our breakfast and coffee (I think she had a tea). Not wanting to look to intrusive after having finished with my coffe I decided to start ahead and saying goodbye with the usual words of being sure to see her later on on the camino. I had liked that girl from the beginning and cheered up from our chat I continued my hike, hoping to meet her really again. I took the wrong turn when leaving the bar and I got on a wrong trail. Only 15 minutes later at the stone cross on the foto below a elderly countrywoman laughing at me with my backpack told me I was not on the camino!  

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She told me through sign language that I am not on the camino and I need to  take a left to find back to the camino. At first I was scarred How I could not have noticed there had been no yellow signs any more and how and where I had taken the wrong turn. At least at the bar there have been lots of pilgrims. But correct, the last 15 minutes I havend seen any other pilgrims. But soon I consoled me that I wouzld not have seen this nice stone cross if I hadn’t missed the way. I took me 10 minutes to find back to the camino by a shortcut and I immediately recognized the camino from far away by the pilgrims on it. I was not too surprised when rejoining to the camino that the first person I met was the girl from the bar who asked me with a grin where I am coming from. From there we walked together (me still impressed about her fast pace). We introduced each other: Her name is Yvonne and she is from Holland. She had started her camino on the coastal variant but soon recognizing that that one was so boring cause there were few people she decided to take the traditional camino frances. We talked relaxedly and walked together for the rest of the day until Monte de Gozo. At 12.45 pm we had lunch in a truckers restaurant in Cruce de Castrofeio. Arriving in Monte de Gozo we had walked and talked together around 7 hours. this had been one of the nicest day on my camino. I remember that my feet where aching the whole day and I was paying the bill for my 40 km daily stages of the last 5 days. Yvonne even didn’t mind to slow down her incredible pace so that I could follow her. This day was also the day I made the least amount of photos cuase I was so focused on following my conversation with Yvonne. 

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Me at the pilgrims monument on Monte de Gozo.

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Here I got my last credential stamp (beside the final one in Santiago): the chapel on Monte de Gozo. I also took an Ice cream hear at the kiosk in front of the chapel.

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Dinner with Yvonne, (me) Rachel and Patrick (from left to right) in Monte de Gozo.

Monte de Gozo (Mountain of delight) is only 5 km from the Santiago de Compostella basilica. Most Pilgrims pass their last night before arriving in Santiago de Compostella in Monte de Gozo. It has quite large bed capacity and the facility looks like an olympic village.  Late in the evening Yvonne and me had a dinner in the only restaurant in that pilgrims facility. We met Rachel and Patrick (both from San Diego) who were studiying for a year in Madrid and had also heared of and decided to hike the camino. We had fun with red wine and exchanged our email-addresses. In the village we saw a lot of faces we had seen before on the camino, also Antonio the brasilian guy with arthrosis I had met the day before arrived later in the evening. Still impressionating that he had also  made this 38 km stage today. What remains in memory from Monte de Gozo is that everybody there was kind of happy and cheerful and with a grin on the face. We all knew: We had all managed the camino. This had been the last day of pain and 8 hours and Plus hiking. Only another 4 km remined tomorrow. Tomorrow we would reach our destination: Santiago de Compostella.

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Sunday, 9th of December 2007 at 08:55:13 PM

My Camino Day 4 (Monday June 4 2007): Portos - Palas de Rei - Melide -Arzúa (~35 km)

This monday starts at 6.30 am when the first pilgrims start their hike and wake me up. I wait until all have left and start as last one at around 7 am. The first 1 hour until Palas de Rei its quite foggy and cold. I decide to Breakfast not before 9 am like the previous days.

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Palas de Rei: I arrive there after a 1 hour hike. The first bigger town after Portomarin on the Camino.

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Near San Xulian I cross the road and this sign motivates me: Only 65 km remaining to Santiago.

Here I pass a peculair pilgrim: He walks extremly slow, occasionally raises both arms to the sky and sings kind of church hymns. Overtaking him with my speedy pace I just think this poor fool will never make it to Santiago. I wouldn’t believe to meet him again this same monday evening in the same albergue like me in Arzua, arriving 6 hours behind me and telling me he is from Brasil and has Arthrosis in his hips. His name is Antonio and he is such a nice guy. Later on the camino I learn from other people I meet, that everybody on the camino knows Antonio from Belo Horizonte and everybody loves him. What I learn this day is: Dont judge someone too early and dont judge someoone by his speed.

Quite hungry I arrive in San Xulian and after having read the recomendation for the bar O Abrigadoiro in my guide I decide to breakfast there.

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San Xulian, Alberque O Abrigadoiro: Here I had my breakfast, after 2 hours walking. The man behind the bar with a big white beard is quite occupied to serve a group of spanish pupils and I have to wait 15 minutes for my coffee and bocadillo (sandwich).  But the bar is so nice a interesting that I dont mind to wait.

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Passing San Xiulian city centre: stone cross

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apostle cross on the camino somewhere near Melide

At noon I arrive in Melide and have a quick lucnh. I tried to find a possibility for Email/Internet but nothing to find here. So I continue my walk around 1 pm.

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exiting Melide: view back to the town

The Hike from Meilide goes through forests and fields and it was a warm sunny afternoon. Very nice the crossing over Rio Catasol over big stone bricks.

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Me crossing Rio Catasol: Near Raido

In the small village Boente I remember a priest standing in front of his chapel and intercepting every pilgrim on the camino to have a look into his chapel. He was spreading good mood, greated everyone by hand with a wide smile, explained the interior of the chapel and awarded every visitor with a small photo of apostle Jacob (Santiago). I also took the chance to get a credential in his chapel and one of his photos.

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Late evening, near Arzua. The woman with the sticks was a french lady who had told me she had started her camino in Paris, France. Around 4 in the evening I arrive in a nice clean albergue in Arzua, the Hostal Lactae. (8 Euro). There I takea shower, relax a little bit and then I find a Internet shop where I can check emails and news. In a nice restaurant I have a great dinner with red wine. Late in the evening around ten o clock, I was already lying in the bed I decide to stand up again and go into the garden of the hostal cause I couldn’t sleep yet. There I meet Antonio: The slow and hymn singing pilgrim I had seen this morning near Palas de Rei. We chat a litttle bit and I recognize that he is not crazy. He tells me that he is from Belo Horizonte, Brasil, is 34 years old and has hip arthrosis. He can walk only very slow so he has to make very long day hikes. He told me he had just arrived in Arzua, was washing some clothes and having a cheesee sandwich. Very sympathic guy, father of a 4 year old girl. I was  little bit ashamed of me having declared him as crazy this morning.

I am in Arzua: only 42 km left to Santiago. A good feeling, knwoing that I had walked already 160 km and I will latest arrive on Wedneday in Santiago. Only one full hiking day left!

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